GVI Kenya

Conserving Kenya’s coastal habitats

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Is Kisite-Mpunguti MPA Offering Dolphin-Watching Tours?

Category: Cetacean research, Dolphin-watching tours, Dolphins, Eco-tourism, Humpback Dolphins, Humpback whales, Kisite Mpunguti MPA, bottlenose dolphins | Date: Nov 06 2009 | By: gvikenya

As part of the socio-economic impact of the dolphin-watching industry in Kisite-Mpunguti Marine Protected Area, GVI carried out a study to evaluate the quality of the talks offered during the dolphin-watching tours. The aim was to find out the knowledge of the tour guides and captain on numerous areas and indicators. This study was undertaken between July and September of 2009 by GVI staff and volunteers, which accompanied 12 tourist dhow trips, assessing 15 guides and captains. 

Unfortunately when analysing the assessment forms and categorising the areas into either insufficient or sufficient, the vast majority of trips proved to be overall insufficient.  In fact only 3 areas – presentation, duration and route and information on KMMPA – were deemed as sufficient in over half of the trips.

The first assessment was on the presentation relating to information provided on the company, crew and boat given at the beginning of the trip.  In 5 of the 12 trips only the names of the crew were given.  However, 7 proved to be sufficient providing information in a very warm and friendly manner covering all three areas.  

The information provided on the duration and route of the trip is the second area deemed to be overall sufficient.  Ten trips gave full details regarding the structure of the day, detailing the period spent searching for dolphins, snorkelling and the break for lunch.  However, 2 trips failed to mention this area at all!

The final area assessed as sufficient was for information provided on the Kisite-Mpunguti Marine Protect Area.  In this area 7 of the 12 trips provided good information on the difference between the Marine Park and the Marine Reserve (three of them offered by the same tour guide).  However, again 5 trips failed to provide information, merely pointing out where the MPA was.

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 GVI volunteers on board a tourist dhow

Information provided on the local area also proved to be very insufficient.  With only 6 trips mentioning Shimoni, by providing a brief history and information relating to the slave caves.  Additionally, only 6 made mention of Wasini, detailing the coral board walk and village tour.  Only 1 trip discussed Mkwiro, and even that it was only to advice that it was a fisherman village.   The remainder of the tours provided no information whatsoever on the surrounding areas.

Similarly, not one of the tourist dhows discussed anything to do with the local oceanography.  For example no information was given regarding the geographical location in the Indian Ocean, of the important nesting turtle site in Funzi Bay, nor the important fishing ground of the Nyuli Reef.

Insufficient information was also provided in the area of health and safety, with the average time spent discussing this being less than 30 seconds.  Advice was given to maintain the balance of the boat, however nothing was discussed relating to the life jackets, life rings, first aid or fire extinguishers.  All 12 dhows failed to provide sufficient information. 

Another area in which most of the tourist dhows surprising failed to provide sufficient information on was that of the marine species.  Considering the tourist dhows were actually providing a dolphin-watching tour only 2 of them provided detailed information relating to the species of dolphins that could be found in the area and their habitats.  However 10 of them failed to spend even 30 seconds doing this.  Furthermore, not one of the dhows mentioned the possibility of sighting humpback whales, their characteristics or of their migration pattern through KMMPA.  With GVI having 7 sighting of humpback whales during this study period, there is clear evidence of this migration!  Similarly, when discussing the snorkelling that would be taking place as part of the tour none of them mentioned the likelihood of spotting turtles or of the species they may see in the area. 

All 12 tourist dhows also failed to discuss KWS or the Code of Conduct introduced in 2007.  No mention was made of the requirement of dolphin watching dhows to maintain a distance of 100m from groups of dolphins, that they should try and have only 2 boats around a group at one time, and to steer around a group.

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 Tour guide approaching a tourist

However, on a positive note the analysis on the interaction of the tour guides is good.  The vast majority of guides were answering questions raised, and there were being interactive with the tourists.  They had a good approach and were very friendly.  Friendly suggestions were to spend less time on personal phones and not to throw cigarette ends into the MPA.

This study showed an urgent need to train the dolphin-watching guides and captains on different areas, mainly on health & safety, history of Shimoni area (Shimoni, Wasini and Mkwiro), Kisite-Mpunguti Marine Protected Area boundaries and regulations and dolphin and whales identification, biology and ecology.

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Whales, Dolphins And Tourists: The Tensions

Category: Cetacean research, Dolphins, Humpback whales, Kisite Mpunguti MPA, bottlenose dolphins | Date: Oct 10 2009 | By: gvikenya

The start of GVI’s marine research this October was certainly an incredible one. As part of the daily dolphin survey we were heading through Funzi Bay towards the Wasini Channel when Nick (our conservation intern/staff) excitedly drew our attention to a potential sighting. To our amazement it was a humpback whale and her calf.

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There had been anticipation in the air that such a sighting may occur since the whales were migrating South from the warmer waters of the East African coast where humpback whales breed (during July and August), but no one could have expected it so early; we had been on board for a mere hour and a half.

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While the sighting was spectacular, the events that followed demonstrated the challenges of marine conservation in popular tourist areas and the importance of GVI’s work. With minutes two tourist boats had also spotted the whales and, as one would expect, they wanted to get the best view possible. This attention clearly agitated the mother and her calf and they diverted their course away from Wasini Channel. Although it was incredible to have seen such an animal, it was sobering to have seen at first hand the direct impact of tourist traffic on marine mammals. Our humpback whale sighting was not the only sighting of the day to illustrate this…

Not long after having left the mother and calf, we encountered a group of bottlenose dolphins travelling through Kiste Mpunguti Marine Park. Again, we were exposed to the impact tourism is having in the area and the difficulty of balancing much-needed tourism with equally important conservation. We witnessed tourists jumping from their tour boat directing in amongst the group of dolphins. Of course, the possibility of swimming with dolphins is an excellent means of generating custom for the tour operators, but it is detrimental to the dolphins and indeed, it is prohibited by the KMMPA Code of Conduct.

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These two sightings were an amazing start to the season’s marine research, but the experience was a stark reminder of the tensions that exist between the need for income gained through tourism and ecological conservation; both of which are vital to the local area and economy. In turn, these tensions demonstrate the necessity of GVI’s work and the value of the data it provides which is used by local organisations to develop solutions to such problems.

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A Real Welcome Back

Category: Cetacean research, Coastal Forest, Colobus, Humpback whales, Primate Research, Shimoni Forest, Southern Banded Snake Eagle | Date: Oct 09 2009 | By: gvikenya

Well hello everyone!

First of all, apologies for the lack of blog action over the last few weeks or so.  We have had a month long break in research, and all of us here at GVI have had a well deserved holiday!  We’re back now, for another 3 month research period that will bring us up to December. 

We’ve kicked off with an amazing first week for both the marine and terrestrial research programs, with plenty of exciting sightings.  I’ll begin today with a bit about the terrestrial action, and then will fill you all in tomorrow about our humpback whale sighting on marine!

Wednesday saw the first exciting sighting for one of the groups in the forest.  We were on transect 6 (our northern most transect) doing a primate community survey.  We had stopped to observe two troops of colobus monkeys that were having a verbal disagreement.  The two dominant males were producing a barrage of croaking roars, aimed at each other.  Male colobus monkeys have an enlarged larynx which allows them to produce this sound – a territorial vocalisation.  It is an awesome sound to hear, and we were standing in the middle of these two going all out!

As we were watching the colobus, a huge shadow passed over us as gazing upwards we were presented with a spectacular view of a southern-banded snake eagle! It had obviously been disturbed by the noise, and flew so low over our head we got a perfect look at it, allowing for a 100% identification.  We are all trained on the identification of the rare, threatened or endangered bird species in Shimoni forest, specifically for opportunities such as this.

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(Stevenson, Fanshawe 2004)

The southern banded-snake eagle is a threatened species, and we have only sighted it a few times over the last year.  It is a stunning eagle, and we were all gibbering with excitement for hours afterwards! 

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(Stevenson, Fanshawe 2004)

We have a bunch more exciting sightings from the rest of the week, but these shall have to wait until we’ve told you about the whale tomorrow!  We are very glad to be back, and look forward to getting into our blog again, to keep you all up to date with the progress, sightings and happenings on the beautiful south coast of Kenya.

Until tomorrow!

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(Stevenson, Fanshawe 2004)

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A Whale Of A Day

Category: Cetacean research, Humpback whales | Date: Aug 13 2009 | By: gvikenya

On Sunday we were rewarded with yet another amazing sighting of Humpback Whales. It has been the sixth sighting since the beginning of 093 Expedition. This time, a mother Humpback Whale and its young calf were socializing in the channel between Mkwiro and Shimoni, so close to our Base Camp that we were able to see them from the land.

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 The mother

It didn’t take us too long to prepare the cameras and GPS and jump into the boat to spend some time watching the pair as they slowly cruised in the channel. They seemed very relaxed in this calm and shallow waters; the young calf was lying on its back showing its distinctive white pectoral fins, while the mother rubbed her body from underneath. We were just overwhelmed by the beauty and the magnificence of the moment!

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The calf showing its pectoral fin  

But the main show was yet to come…after a short diving period, the calf breached more than half of its body clearly out of the water just about 30m away from our boat…Whoww! Sunny Sunday Mornings at GVI’s Mkwiro Base.  

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The pair together

During the last year (2008) we had a total of 6 sightings of 15 Humpback whales inside our study area. And from the start of July 2009, GVI has already seen 14 Humpback whales in 7 sightings. We are now sharing this data with other organizations collecting data on Humpback whales (a network that involves almost 100 whale-watchers along the East African Coast, from southern Mozambique to northern Unguja Island, Zanzibar) and contributing to have a better understanding of the migration pattern of this species.

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Humpback Whale Group Sighted at Nyuli Reef

Category: Cetacean research, Humpback whales, Kisite Mpunguti MPA | Date: Jul 21 2009 | By: gvikenya

Our marine research team had an amazing day yesterday! Setting off at 7am in our research boat, we surveyed out to Funzi bay and then back across to the Kisite Mpunguti marine protected area, when, after 3 hours, passing over Nyuli reef, out captain Shafii and Ines called out the phrase that has been on everybody’s lips since our first sighting two weeks ago… “whale”.

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The huge blow on the horizon seen erupting from the waters was an unmistakable marker of our second humpback whale group of the season. Our boat motored out to where it had been seen, as the whale slapped its tail on the water’s surface, rolled and dived down. Three whales were seen and the research boat attempted to track a pair, possibly mother accompanied by her older offspring, but certainly not one of this season’s new arrivals. The boat follwed them as they travelled and then they dived once more. We cut the engine and waited… everyoe breathless and alert, scanning the horizon. the dive lasted two minutes and then one of the anmals broke the surface once more, in an incredible breach, the whale’s huge body shooting vertically out of the water more than halfway before crashing down on its side.

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Seeing these ocean giants so close is exhilirating, their size and grace never failing to take your breath away. And we got some fantastic photos for you to enjoy!

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Humpback Whale Season Begins in Kenya

Category: Cetacean research, Humpback whales | Date: Jul 05 2009 | By: gvikenya

Hello there! After a rough week of stormy seas and torrential (and somewhat mysterious!) ‘black rain’ brought by the Kusi monsoon winds, Friday left us with something to celebrate… well, a pair of somethings actually.

Monday was a training day for us, teaching our new researchers how to identify different turtle species, dolphin species and their larger cousins the humpback whales. Tuesday was… a total wash out! Torrential rain kept our research boat and research team firmly moored at Mkwiro. Wednesday and Thursday saw us out on the choppy water but the winds kept us confined to the Wasini channel. A brief sighting of a green turtle and bottlenose dolphin were all we got for our efforts and in rough seas following the dolphin sighting and undertaking photo identification surveys proved too difficult.

Friday was looking to be a similar story as the planned survey route to Funzi bay was abandoned and we turned back in to the Wasini channel, however it turned out that we didn’t need to venture as far as Funzi bay… we barely needed to venture off our base in Mkwiro village as it happened. On re-entering the eastern end of Wasini channel the research team were confronted by two seasonal visitors in front of Mkwiro… a pair of humpback whales! We’re not sure that this particular pair was a mother and calf, although one was smaller, it certainly wasn’t a new born and as this marks the beginning of Kenya’s 2009 humpback whale season, we’re expecting mothers to be on their migration north up the East African coastline before they calve.

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However it is very exciting for us to see the humpback whales (the fourth largest animal in the world as I learned recently!) return and for those of us here last year, the significance of last Friday, 3rd July, wasn’t lost on us. Last year, the first sighting of humpback whales in the area relayed to us, was on 3rd July! We can’t wait to find out what else we can learn from them over the coming months and if we’re lucky we may have a chance of finding out if any of the individuals we photographed last year have returned for 2009.

 Stay tuned, we’ll be blogging our way through the 2009 humpback whale season for you!

Corti

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Dugongs are back on Kenya’s south coast

Category: Cetacean research, Dolphins, Dugongs, Humpback whales | Date: Jan 18 2009 | By: gvikenya

Before we move completely in to a new and exciting of year of GVI and Kenya, some of our research and community development team have put together their highlights and memories of the end of last year to share. So, from the research boat, Bardan…

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Not forgetting the beautiful humpback whales, including their calves, that we saw and blogged during our first couple of weeks on the marine research programme back in October, the rest was equally exciting. On many occasions we could count ourselves lucky enough to spend time in the wake of large groups of Indian Ocean bottlenose dolphins… the coolest part though? Thanks to a lot of office time and more photographs of fins than we care to dwell on, we could recognise many of the dolphins and know them by name!  Mothers, juveniles, calves all leaped from the water demonstrating elegance and playfulness in equal measure.

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Indo-pacific humpback dolphins also put in an appearance but remarkably… and for the first time ever… the cetaceans (our whales and dolphins) were upstaged by another marine mammal. And one that we never truly, honestly expected to see, however much we had hoped. On 4th November 2008, our dedicated observers on board Bardan, whilst tracking bottlenose dolphins in to Funzi bay, recorded the first confirmed sighting of a dugong on Kenya’s south coast in the three years we have been here, and to our knowledge, in over a decade; none were recorded south of Mombasa in a 1998 aerial survey, whilst Kenya’s entire population, concentrated around the Lamu archipelago, could be down to single figures by now.

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Humpback whales return in numbers

Category: Cetacean research, Humpback whales | Date: Sep 08 2008 | By: gvikenya

It must be fate after my final comments on the last blog… the humpback whales returned today and ironically it was the coastal forest research team and not the marine research boat that recorded them! I got a call at around 10am from our team in the forest who had trekked out to the very end of our transect 1, where the forest meets the ocean, to be presented with 3 humpback whales entering the Wasini channel, just 500m from our base on the island. I jumped on board our small wooden dinghy, ‘Squirrel’, with our marine staff Sergi, Ines and Shafii, and the necessary survey forms, and we headed out as fast as our 25hp would allow us in the direction the whales had gone. Sightings of a couple of blows on the horizon as the whales surfaced to breathe, and a splash as one of them breached, indicated that we were at least heading in the right direction although not necessarily catching them.

Beyond Nyuli reef and out to sea we stopped the engine and drifted looking out for signs of these huge mammals, which become very difficult to locate in the open ocean. And then a couple more tell-tale blows on the horizon pointed us in the right direction. Unfortunately they were too far and moving to fast to get close to, but through binoculars I had a perfect view of four large tails emerge from the water’s surface and slip back down again in perfect synchrony. Another blow behind them indicated that there were at least five animals in total.

The only time I’d seen humpback whales was about 8 years ago, between Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar, so it was fantastic to see them again, right on my doorstep… and another reminder of just how lucky I am to be involved in our project here in Kenya.

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 The photograph above shows the ‘blow’ of a humpback whale as it surfaces to breathe, within 500 metres of our base in Mkwiro

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The photograph above shows a humpback whale seen last Thursday, closer than we were able to get today

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Humpback Whale Photos

Category: Cetacean research, Humpback whales, Kisite Mpunguti MPA | Date: Sep 06 2008 | By: gvikenya

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In the last blog I wrote about our latest encounter with humpback whales here in the Kisite Mpunugti MPA, so I thought I would share some of the many photos our marine research team on the day managed to get.

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The mother-calf pair above visited Kisite Mpunguti MPA on Thursday this week

Humpback whales, Megaptera novaeangliae, can grow up to 15m in length and 30 tonnes in weight. They are a highly migratory species travelling up the East African coast to breed in the warm clear waters off the Arabian peninsula. Sightings of very young calves  indicate that they may breed off the Kenyan coast as they will generally wait until their calves are strong enough before attempting the long journey back to the productive feeding grounds of the Antarctic for during the southern hemisphere’s summer months.

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Humpback whales are baleen whales, or mysticetes, with baleen plates instead of teeth, for filter-feeding. They are named for their characteristic long hump beneath the somewhat short, stubby dorsal fin. Their pectoral fins are distinctively long, up to one third of their body length and the head is covered in numerous knobs called tubercles.

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Humpback whales reappear at Kisite Marine Park

Category: Cetacean research, Humpback whales, Kisite Mpunguti MPA | Date: Sep 04 2008 | By: gvikenya

The exciting news from our marine research programme today was the reappearance of humpback whales in Kisite Marine Park. The mother and calf pair surfaced near to Kisite Island this morning in front of the team aboard our research vessel ‘Bardan’, a traditional local dhow that also goes by the name of ‘Lampard’ thanks to its Chelsea FC supporting owner. Lampard also happens to be the nickname I go by with the children in Mkwiro village so I’m feeling an affinity with our new boat!

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Humpback whale (Megaptera novaeangliae) photographed close to Kisite-Mpunguti MPA in August 2007

The photo identification survey was attempted this morning, however with these majestic whales, unique identification comes from the pattern of notches on the tail flukes as opposed to the dorsal fins of the dolphins that dominate our cetacean research. Unfortunately this pair did not demonstrate much tail-diving behaviour and so opportunities to photograph their tail flukes for analysis were few and far between.

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Mother-calf pair Humpback whales surveyed last year in Kisite-Mpunguti MPA

However it is very exciting still to have the opportunity to record the movements of these infrequent visitors to the Kisite-Mpunugti marine protected area. This is only our second sighting of them on marine surveys this year, the first coming almost a month ago, again a mother-calf pair, although we can’t yet determine if they were the same pair. Humpback whales were also spotted in the Wasini channel at the beginning of July, but not whilst our research vessel was at sea. Taken together this represents valuable data in understanding their migratory movements on the south Kenyan coast which this year covers at least a two month period. In addition it is a remarkable experience for our expedition members that have been conducting our cetacean research on the bottlenose and humpback dolphins, to see their larger relatives close up in the same waters. I hope that I will have more to report in the coming weeks as it is always a privilege to see these kings of the ocean.

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